As people seek refuge from an increasingly harsh world, private luxuries have become a necessity.  Arrelle Fine Linens offers a treasure trove of beauty which will fulfill the desires of those who wish to create an inviting retreat in their home.
 
Beautiful fabrics are essential comforts that soften hard edges and have the ability transform the ordinary into a haven. Whether opulent or austere, a well dressed home provides solace to the eyes, the body and the soul. 

And certainly, the pleasure of luxurious slumber is also part of living well.  Few places surpass the intimacy of one’s bedroom and few experiences equal the exquisite comfort of fine Egyptian cotton sheeting against the skin. 

Whether you are seeking to expand your personal linen trousseau or simply enjoy beautiful haute couture for the home, we welcome you to experience an epiphany of wonderful home fashions in an atmosphere of refinement and cordiality.

Our buyers search the finest mills of Italy, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Belgium and France to find the most luxurious and sumptuous fabrics to bring to the American consumer comfort and beauty enjoyed for generations by the most prominent families in Europe.

WASHING INSTRUCTIONS AND STAIN GUIDE
FOR FINE HOUSEHOLD LINENS

How to enjoy and keep your fine table linens from being destroyed:
These instructions are suitable for 100% cotton, damask, linen and linen/cotton  damask, embroidered and cutwork fabrics, tablecloths and bedlinens. Caution: DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH.

The Basics:

Rinsing your linens and with copious water and pre-washing stains is usually necessary for good results.  Washing by machine with a large capacity home washer is fine for most damask and solid woven fabrics once you have removed the worst of the stains by hand.  Machine drying is safe on sturdier table linens and bedding BUT only use a large capacity machine on a delicate cycle with a low heat setting.  Immediately remove fabric(s) from machine upon drying or even while still slightly damp. If your washer or drier is not designed for big loads you will be better off hand washing your fine linens and line drying. Gently shake out and smooth the major wrinkles by hand, and then fold before ironing.  Do not leave your linens in a huge tangled heap or exposed to prolonged moisture which can form mildew.

IF IN DOUBT, HAVE YOUR LINENS CLEANED PROFESSIONALLY BY A REPUTABLE CLEANER.

HANDWASHING INSTRUCTIONS and
PRILIMINARY STAIN REMOVAL FOR MACHINE WASHING:

1. SOAK YOUR TABLE LINENS AS SOON AS POSSIBLE AFTER ENTERTAINING.  Remove linens from the table. Isolate the most obvious problem areas and pre-clean before soaking. Washout these areas by gently rubbing a little Ivory or Le Blanc applied directly into spot and then rinse under running water.    ADD a little (1-5teaspoons) of mild washing detergent to the water and let everything soak for up to 24 hours.  If you cannot attend to your linens immediately just allow everything to soak. Even soaking your linens in plain lukewarm water will help make stains come out more easily.
   
   Caution:  DO NOT SOAK COLORED EMBROIDERIES unless you are certain that the thread is colorfast.  Embroidered threads will bleed onto fabric unless sewn with a colorfast thread.  If in doubt have your linens professionally cleaned.
   
   FOR MORE STUBBORN CASES let the linens soak with an enzyme reactive such as Axion or Biz as recommended (these work especially well with protein stains, such as eggs, blood or gravy). White and pastel linens can soak safely in this manner for days without damage to the fibers, however you may have a slight lifting of colors with longer soaking. White or ivory fabrics should be ok. White linens can also safely soak in Clorox II used according to box instructions.
   
   Periodically examine the problem spots.  Rub gently with a little LeBlanc linen wash or mild dishwashing detergent applied directly to the spots.  Rinse out while the basin fills with water.  Repeat soaking, add a little more soap to water, and mildly agitate linens by hand to create some suds. Periodically agitate and re-examine the tough spots. Repeating the above cleaning procedure and follow with rinsing.  Replace the water and soap mixture at least twice daily or until stains are gone.  When hand washing, begin with lukewarm water (except with blood) and gradually heat it up to 112º F (45º C).  Some shrinkage of your linens should be expected, but with most high quality sheets and tablecloths this should amount to only 2% to 3%.
2. GENTLY WRING OUT TABLECLOTH AND MACHINE WASH OR HANDWASHING ENTIRE FABRIC ONE MORE TIME, and rinse.  
3. THOUROUGHLY RINSE OUT SOAP WITH COPIOUS WATER (Four to five times the volume of the linen). Gently wring out excess water and hang to dry. 
4. HANG WET LINENS IMMEDIATELY.   Do not leave wet linens in a pile to dry.  They will stay wrinkled if left in this manner.
   
   CAUTION: Extra care should be given to laces and fragile fabrics being lifted while saturated with water.  Before transporting, gently squeeze out the excess water and support the cloth with your hands from underneath.  Do not subject a small portion of the fabric to the entire weight of the fabric.
5. SMOOTH OUT ANY CREASES BY HAND AND ALLOW CLOTH TO LINE DRY.   Fabrics will iron more easily if the creases have already been removed while drying.  Fabrics that shrink, such as 100% linen or cutwork laces, should be periodically blocked while drying to retain their shape and for more successful ironing.
   
   Do not leave dried items in a wrinkled pile; they will be much harder to iron later. Fold your linens before ironing.
   
   Machine drying is safe on sturdier table linens.  Again, use only a large capacity machine on a delicate cycle and with a low heat setting.  Immediately remove fabric from machine upon drying or while even linens are still slightly damp. Gently shake out the major wrinkles and smooth out the creases with your hand. Fold a couple times and smooth creases again, then iron.

MACHINE WASHING INSTRUCTIONS:
After removing the worse stains from your table linens, machine-wash using a large capacity home washer on the delicate cycle, or synthetic setting for studier fabrics.  Lace or antique tablecloths should not be agitated by machine unless protected in a large lingerie bag while washing. Do not machine wash fragile items.

IMPORTANT:  Powder detergents must be completely dissolved in water before adding linens. Although liquid detergents are highly recommended, do not pour them directly on any items being washed.  Doing this can stain or bleach-out color from the fabric.  Instead, add your linens to the dissolved soap solution once the tub as completely filled.

Use LeBlanc Linen wash, a mild detergent or one that contains non-chlorine bleach.

Separating your wash by color is essential. Do not mix dark or highly colored items together with whites and pastels.

Brand new colored linens should be soaked separately for about twelve hours in slightly soapy cold water.  If color appears to be lifting, wash these items alone.  Other items can be permanently stained if they are washed together.  Test highly colored items for colorfastness by rubbing a wet, slightly soapy rag in a non-noticeable area of the cloth being tested.

IRONING
If the above instructions are followed, most high quality fabrics will iron easily.  A light sizing agent such as Magic Spray will make ironing easier and provide some added body to your linens.  The use of fragrant waters in your steamer is also recommended to impart a delightful floral infusion to your bed and table linens.

Iron your linens at the appropriate fabric setting or slightly below temperature.  A steam setting on your iron is helpful for wrinkles.  However, if the cloth is completely dry with deep wrinkling, then sprinkle the fabric with some water to dampen before ironing. Linen and linen blend items are most successfully pressed while still slightly damp.

CAUTION: Never iron or machine dry a badly washed cloth. The heat will "bake in" most stains, setting them permanently into the fabric.

Difficult Cases:

Grease: Wet the spot with a liquid detergent and/or spot remover. Let it sit for a while, then agitate linen in machine for a while. Turn machine off and let linen soak for a few hours. Then finish washing the linen in the machine or by hand.  Alternate method:  use K2R spray and allow grease stain to dry.  Brush off powder and repeat treatment if necessary or wash with some soap and water.

Blood: Treat immediately. Blot with cold water and a little soap until stain is removed. Some people suggest blotting with water and ammonia or salt.  If the spot has not been treated right away, you may have to soak the cloth in cool water with a enzyme reactive stain remover (Biz or Axion). Soak until spot disappears.

Ballpoint pens: Place linen over a clean cloth and use acetone (nail polish remover with no scent or coloration). Saturate and pat the spot until the nail polish dissolves and goes through onto clean cloth. Then launder in cool water.

Cranberry sauce: Follow instructions for wine stains.

Coffee: Soak linens immediately in lukewarm water and then transfer them to washing machine and launder in hot soapy water. (Expect slight shrinkage).

Gravy: Follow grease spot instructions.

Singe burns: Pour hydrogen peroxide onto burn and let it sit until singe mark begins to lift. At that time, wash linen in the machine.

Wax spots:  Sandwich cloth between two brown paper bags or paper towels and iron from back of cloth. The wax will melt and be absorbed by the paper.  Benzene will soften and may completely dissolve wax for lifting off the residue.

Wine: For red wine blot stain with cool water. Then stretch cloth over a bowl and pour boiling water through the spot until water runs through clear.

If you are uncomfortable with the idea of trying any of these procedures yourself, the best thing to do is to leave the stain alone and call Linens Limited at 1 800 637 6334. You can send your linens to them to have them professionally cleaned.

Nature’s Perfect Insulator

The most common mistake consumers make when purchasing a down product is confusing down with feathers. Every bird has both down and feathers. Down consists of large amorphous clusters with little organized structure and extremely low density. The down lays closest to the bird's skin, helping to insulate it and keep it warm. Growing over the layer of down are the bird's feathers, which have a definite structure and are far denser than down. The purpose of the feathers is to keep the bird dry, and to provide aerodynamic shaping.

The colder the climate in which the bird lives, the higher its quality of down. Waterfowl produce the best down. The best down comes from Eider ducks. Eiderdown used to be synonymous with down comforters in general and was used for wedding gifts for generations in Europe. Unfortunately the Eider duck is now endangered and the only Eiderdown which can legally be used must be collected from abandoned nests. As one may imagine this has made the cost of Eiderdown comforters prohibitively expensive. Eiderdown also has the disadvantage of a very dark gray color, producing a comforter which is challenging to incorporate in a decorating scheme. The finest down practicable for use today is Siberian Goosedown. Hungary, Poland and Canada also produce fine Goosedown. Duckdown (with the exception of that found on Eider Ducks) is inferior and not suited for finer comforters.

Prior to use in comforters, pillows and other related down-filled products, the down must be separated from the feathers. This is done by blowing air through a vertical column containing the down/feather mixture. The large clusters of down float to the top and the feathers sink to the bottom, allowing the down to be easily captured. Each time this process is repeated the fraction of down in the mix increases, and with further applications, very high down fractions can be obtained.

The quality of the resulting down mixture is determined by measuring the average size of the down clusters and by measuring the volume occupied by one ounce of the down mix, exclusive of all feathers. The total volume measured in cubic inches is called “fill power“ and ranges from 450 to 850 for the highest quality down.

It is crucial to keep the feather content in the down mix to a minimum. Feathers are very destructive to a down comforter or pillow. Their sharp quills will poke holes in the cotton ticking allowing down to escape and feathers weigh incalculably more than down volume-for volume, adding weight to the comforter, but adding little else of value. Feathers also inhibit the evaporation of moisture through a comforter (think of the feather’s purpose in keeping water off of a goose’s back) holding perspiration under the comforter, making it feel hot and oppressive. 

Invariably American manufacturers take advantage of loopholes in US labeling laws to add feathers to the down mix in order to maximize profits at the expense of the durability and quality of the product. Federal laws allow American manufacturers to label a down product as containing no more than 5% feather even when it contains up to one fifth feather.

The down should be contained within a well-sewn shell (also called a “ticking”) constructed from fine quality cotton of a minimum 220 thread count. A high threadcount is important to keep the down from leaking through the weave itself. The cotton should also be long staple cotton, preferably Egyptian, to insure durability and long life. The higher the threadcount, the more luxurious the comforter.

What gives down its special warmth properties is its lightness, which relies on how much air it contains. It’s this layer of air that captures the heat from your own body. Nature provides geese from the coldest climates with the very best down and with the largest clusters.

Arrelle Fine Linens' quality control is of the highest standard. Purchase wisely and invest in the best quality possible for the maximum durability and enjoyment of your new comforter.

A trousseau consists of family heirlooms and treasures of lasting value.  In former days, these were the material possessions collected for the bride’s dowry.  Items such as china, jewelry, fine textiles and household linens were all included in the family trousseau.

 Whether utilitarian or opulent, fine textiles are an investment for your home that you and your family will enjoy. Start collecting them and you will learn to cherish your beautiful textiles.  Fine Linens are potable and a pleasure to behold

 Factors should be considered in selecting linens for your basic household needs.  Are the quality, type of fabric, the sewing and detail.  All of these contribute to the total value of your acquisition.   Esthetics aside, one should assess the intended use of a particular item and its necessary maintenance. Is it for every day use or just special occasions?  Your habits and lifestyle should always be a consideration in choosing the any element of the décor in your home.

The following advice will provide you with some guidelines to creating your own personal textile collection.

Selecting Household Linens for Bed, Bath and Table

 Contrary to popular belief, quality Egyptian cotton linens are easier to care for than inferior cotton products.  As with better quality apparel, a superior fabric will performs better, wrinkles less and provides more years of enjoyment.
 
 When purchasing bedlinens, feel the fabric to see that it has a good “hand”.  Because sheeting is intended to be next to your skin, it should feel very comfortable.

 A high threadcount long-staple cotton is especially favored for bedding for its comfort and strength. Good quality cotton breathes well and feels soothing; sensuaously cool in summer and warm in winter.

 European bedding is frequently composed of actual linen fiber (flax).  Linen fabrics are very comfortable for summer, are substantially more durable than cotton, but require ironing.  Linen’s toothy texture can vary tremendously - from coarse to extremely soft in its most refined state.

Fine tablecloths are also usually made of a durable Egyptian cotton, pure linen or a linen blend.  Napkins can be made out of thinner fabrics for a soft draped look and feel.  For optimum appearance your linens will require some ironing, just like a quality cotton shirt looks its best when ironed.

HINTS FOR STARTING A COLLECTION:

1. Collect household linens for its uniqueness, workmanship and beauty. 
   Stick to items of quality—you will enjoy them longer. 
2. Build your collection on top of what you already own. Optimize your investment. Go for an eclectic mix and get creative. 
3. Examine textiles closely before you purchase.  Select with care. Look carefully for flaws immediately after unpackaging. These types of items generally cannot be returned once they are used or laundered.
4. Take advantage of special purchasing opportunities. 
   Keep your thinking flexible. It is not necessary to purchase an entire matching ensemble.
5. Store your textiles and fine goosedown products in a clean dry place that is free of mildew.

FASHION TIP:  Recycle your treasures in new locations.

Guest towels and other smaller finished textiles can be used to create interesting table centerpieces.  Cut work, embroideries and/or rustic yarn-dyed linens are especially pretty. Add candles and flowers to match your china to help complete the color story.

Add decorative accents with saturated colored to turn a room into a dramatic style statement.  This is a great pick-me-up for special occasions, or chose a color theme for a several weeks without being married to a look.

Transform a funky old table into a beauty with an elegant tablecloth. 

Try embellishing a couch that you are waiting to reupholster with some interesting decorative pillows and/or a throw. When you get your new furniture, use these items on your bed or in another room.

Temporarily retire or rotate your treasures when you get tired of looking at them.  Fine linens and textiles are not throw-away items but things that will become part of your permanent household inventory.

Trousseaus are portable and provide simple decorating solutions. Enjoy.

Cashmere:  Wool collected from the Cashmere goat, which live in the high mountains of Tibet, India and China.  The thick undercoat of the goat is considered among the most precious of wools because of its unique warmth and softness.  Warm properties of the wool are generally determined by the native environment and type of animal.

Cotton:  Cotton’s unique properties make it an ideal insulator, which allows air to flow freely to and from the body, keeping it cool and dry in summer and warm and comfortable in winter.  Cotton fiber is produced by the cotton plant in bolls.  The cotton bolls are collected, the seeds removed in a process called ginning, and the cotton pulled into individual fibers by a process called carding.  The individual cotton fibers, also called staple can vary dramatically in length.  In the final step, the fibers are spun into thread.  The longer the staple, the thinner and stronger the resulting thread.  Cotton quality is largely dictated by the climate in which it is grown (dry and hot is best) and the germ line of the cotton seeds.  Most high quality linens are woven from long staple Egyptian cotton fiber which is most suitable for the finest home textiles.

Damask:  Damask describes a process by which a pattern is woven directly into the fabric.  Texture woven into the fabric can consist of dobby which are simple repetitive patterns; or more elaborate jacquard designs, such as florals or paisleys. 

Merino Wool:  Produced from the first shearing of the Merino sheep, which are raised primarily in Australia. The fibers are longer and softer than those from other sheep making for very luxurious wool.

Percale:  The simplest weave consisting of one warp thread overlaying one weft thread.  This gives a matte finish to the fabric and a soft, comforting, cool feel.

Piece-Dyed:  Fabrics which are dyed after weaving, as opposed to yarn-dyed fabrics where the thread is dyed prior to weaving.  Also known as vat-dyed.

Sateen:  A more complex weave of fabric in which two or more weft threads are passed over one warp thread during the looming process.  The extra parallel threads on the surface create a silky sheen and feel. 

Thread Count:  One of the most confusing terms in the textile business.  Originally known as yarn count or pick count, this term until recently referred to the number of yarns (or threads) per square inch in a single-ply simple fabric.  As use of the term has become more commonly used by the consuming public, it has come to mean the total number of threads per square inch in any fabric.  This can be misleading beacuse there are many 300 thread count single-ply long-staple single-thread yarn fabrics which are superior to 1,200 thread count multiple-ply twisted-thread fabrics.

Trousseau:  A trousseau consists of family heirlooms and treasures of lasting value.  Traditionally part of the bride’s dowry, it includes items such as china, jewelry, clothes, accessories, textiles and household linens.  In the old days, these were the material possessions that the bride brought into the marriage.

Warp Thread:  Threads in the fabric weave which come vertically off the loom.

Weft Thread:  Threads in the fabric weave which are interwoven horizontally in the fabric among the warp threads by the shuttle

Yarn:  Primary constituent of any woven fabric.  Can consist of one or more threads.  Yarns spun from multiple threads produce heavier fabrics.

Yarn-Dyed:  Fabrics in which the threads of the fabric are dyed first before weaving.  This process produces a "heather" look for solid colors, with different hues on the front and the back of the fabric, and an extremely colorfast pattern on damask fabrics.